The Tomb of Jesus
Holy Sepulchre
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Church Of The Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem is one of the world’s most revered monuments and a cornerstone of Christian heritage. On this page, I explore the remarkable history of the Holy Sepulchre — from its origins as a Roman quarry and pagan temple, to the Byzantine, Crusader, and Ottoman eras that shaped the structure we see today. As a licensed Israel Tour Guide specializing in Jerusalem, I’ve studied and guided countless groups through this sacred site, tracing how centuries of faith, conquest, and restoration intertwined within its ancient walls. The story of this church is not just about architecture — it’s about continuity, devotion, and the enduring heart of Christian Jerusalem. Whether you’re a historian, pilgrim, or traveler, this page offers a clear and detailed journey through the evolving history of the Church Of The Holy Sepulchre.
ORIGINS OF THE SITE
Our knowledge regarding the original Church of the Resurrection (Anastasis) is based on archaeological excavations of the 1960s and 1970s, as well as written sources from pilgrims and historians. Since the First Temple Period and until the 2nd century BCE this area was part of a city quarry, which was used for producing building material for the city. At some point, the quarry fell out of use, most probably because the remaining rock had been cracked by earthquakes. The quarry remained unused until the Second Temple Period (2nd century BCE), at which time they started to use it as a graveyard. Archaeologists found tombs in this area but there is no proof that any of these tombs belonged to Jesus. This area had been outside the city in 30 CE, as Agrippa I built Jerusalem’s Third Wall only in 40 CE. But even then this area remained empty and deserted until Emperor Hadrian rebuilt Jerusalem as Aelia Capitolina in 135 CE.
THE ROMAN PAGAN TEMPLE
It was after the Bar Kochba Revolt that Aelia Capitolina was rebuilt as a Pagan city, which included such Pagan features as public squares (forums) and temples. At the site of today’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Hadrian had built a temple to either Venus or Jupiter. Next to the temple there was a big plaza, located in today’s Muristan. The Pagan temple was located in this location until Queen Helena arrived in the Holy Land on a pilgrimage in 326 CE. Once in the Holy Land, she identified all the holy places with the help of locals, after which Emperor Constantine built the first four churches in the Holy Land on these locations.
THE BYZANTINE-ERA CHURCH
Tradition states that when the Pagan temple was removed during the construction of the church, the tomb of Jesus was found underneath the rubble. In 335, a monumental church was therefore built on the site of the Pagan temple. The new church was dedicated to the Resurrection of Jesus, which is why the original name of the church was Church of the Resurrection, which in Greek is Anastasis. Originally, the entrance to the church was from the east, while today the entrance is from the south. While today we speak of one single church, the original church was a collection of different structures, actually composed of four distinct elements:
- The main entrance was from the Cardo (today’s main market street in the Old City) and led to the external courtyard (the eastern atrium).
- The external courtyard led to the basilica (which included the martyrion with the altar. Note that a martyr is a witness, i.e. one who gives testimony of the events that occurred here). • The basilica then led to the inner atrium, which included the Holy Garden.
- The inner atrium led to the westernmost building, which was the holiest place in this church: the rotunda. The rotunda included a small shrine called the aedicula, inside of which the tomb of Jesus was located
THE PERSIAN AND MUSLIM CONQUEST
During the Persian invasion of 614 CE the Anastasis church was damaged and the True Cross was captured. When the Byzantines reconquered the Holy Land, the church was renovated. This renovation took place in 628 under Modestus, but it is said that the renovated church had not been as beautiful as the original one. During the time of the Muslim conquest of the Holy Land, the church remained a Christian site, as the early Muslim rulers prohibited the destruction of Christian sites or their use as living-quarters.
THE DESTRUCTION BY AL-HAKIM BI-AMR ALLAH
In 1009 the Fatimid Caliph, who ruled from Egypt, ordered the complete destruction of the church. In 1048, the church was rebuilt by the Byzantines, although they were not ruling the country at that time. It was Byzantine emperor Constantine Monomachus, who had the money and the influence to cause the Fatimids to permit the rebuilding of the church. After Monomachus’ renovation, some major changes occurred in the church:
- The external atrium and the basilica were not renovated
- To the east of the church, a mosque had been built
- The entrance to the church was changed to the south (due to the construction of the mosque on the eastern side)
CHANGES MADE BY THE CRUSADERS
The Holy Sepulchre Church is one of the most sacred places in Christianity — the site where Jesus is believed to have been crucified, buried, and resurrected. Standing in the heart of Jerusalem’s Old City, this ancient complex has witnessed nearly two millennia of faith, conflict, and devotion. As your licensed Israel Tour Guide, I love sharing the layered history hidden within its courtyards, chapels, and stone stairways. Here you’ll learn how emperors, pilgrims, and monks shaped the church we see today, and why it continues to draw millions each year. Whether you come for history, prayer, or quiet reflection, visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre offers a powerful encounter with Jerusalem’s enduring spirit and story.
THE FIRE OF 1808
In 1808 a huge fire broke out in the church, causing a lot of damage to the building, after which it almost collapsed. Since the Greek Orthodox Church offered a large enough bribe to the Ottoman rulers, they were given permission to perform the renovations. The Greek Orthodox Church therefore took advantage of their unique position and decided to add some extra walls inside the church, in order to define their territory inside the church more clearly. It is said that since this renovation, the church became narrow and dark, whereas it had previously been full of light and space.
THE STATUS QUO AGREEMENT
In the early 19th century, as a result of the Crimean War between the Ottoman and the Russian Empire, the Status Quo agreement was signed between several nations. During the Crimean War, the Ottomans were helped by France and Great Britain. In 1856 a peace treaty was signed in Paris, which decreed that the territorial divisions among the communities in Jerusalem were to be upheld forever. This decree had actually been caused by differences of opinion regarding the upkeep and the performing of minor changes within the holy sites in Jerusalem.
The reason why this treaty was signed was that the tensions between the different Christian communities in the Holy Land started to have a negative effect on the various countries involved. Several years later, another war between the Ottomans and the Russians took place, after which the Treaty of Berlin (1878) reconfirmed all the rights and privileges of these communities. The Status Quo Agreement relates only to those Holy Sites that have more than one owner. These sites are:
- The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem
- The Mosque of the Ascension on the Mount of Olives
- The Tomb of the Virgin Mary on the Mount of Olives
- The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem
At these sites, rights of property and rights of liturgy are regulated by the Status Quo Agreement.
Since the time of the Crusaders, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been owned by three major denominations:
- The Roman Catholic (Latin) Church
- The Greek Orthodox Church
- The Armenian Orthodox Church
and three minor denominations:
- The Coptic (Egyptian) Orthodox Church
- The Ethiopian Orthodox Church
- The Syrian Orthodox Church
The responsibility for upholding the Status Quo Agreement lies in the hands of the sovereign who happens to rule the country at each given time. This is also the reason why a small Police station is located at the entrance of the Parvis. In case of any problems or quarrels between the denominations, the police can quickly step in. It should be remembered that the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem falls under the jurisdiction of the Palestinian Authority.
In order to change something inside or outside of the church, all six denominations need to give their consent. Therefore it is easiest for each group to make changes on their own property. After the earthquake of 1927, the prevailing authority had to step in in order to carry out emergency structural repairs to the Aedicula. Such interventions have not been necessary since 1959, however, when the three main denominations established a common technical bureau.
The most famous symbol of the Status Quo Agreement is the immovable ladder, which has appeared on every picture of the church’s façade since 1890. The ladder always remains on the same spot, because all six denominations have to agree to move it. In the Ottoman Period, the church was only opened important holidays, which was a problem for the monks living in the monasteries that are located inside the church. During that time, the Armenians used the immovable ladder, which is located outside their section, to leave the church in order to get collect food.
In 1831 the country came under Egyptian rule for a period of 10 years. During this time, the church remained open all the time and when the Ottomans took over again, they decided to keep the church open all the time. There is yet another controversy about the ladder, because the frieze on which the ladder stands, belongs to the Greek Orthodox Church, while the room behind the window belongs to the Armenian Orthodox Church. Therefore, even the question about the ownership of the ladder itself remains unanswered. There is also an unresolved controversy between the Coptic Church and the Ethiopian Church, which involves the area of the roof over the Chapel of Helena. The government of Israel decided not to get involved in this dispute, hoping that the two groups will reach an understanding by themselves.
THE FRANCISCANS
The name Custody of the Holy Land refers to the Franciscans of the Order of Friars Minor, who have been present in the area of the Holy Land since the beginning of the order. The order was founded by St. Francis in 1209 and it was commissioned by the church in the 13th century to protect the Holy Sites in the Holy Land in the name of all Christians.
THE HOLDER OF THE KEYS TO THE CHURCH
Between 634 and 638 Sophronius was the Patriarch of Jerusalem. After Caliph Omar conquered the city in 637, he visited the church with Sophronius. When it came time to pray, Sophronius offered the Caliph to pray inside the church, but the Caliph refused and prayed outside of the church. The reason for Caliph Omar to decline Sophronius’ offer was that he didn’t want future generations of Muslims to follow his example and also pray inside the church. This means that the Caliph respected this Christian holy place and wanted to keep it as such. Tradition says that Sophronius was so appreciative of the Caliph’s intelligence, that he offered the keys to the church to him. The Caliph then passed the keys on to an Arab family from Medina, who remains the keeper of the keys until this day.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU VISIT
- Visit Early Or Late: The Holy Sepulchre Church opens early in the morning and quiets down toward evening. Midday crowds can be intense, so timing your visit helps preserve the atmosphere.
- Dress Respectfully: Modest clothing (covered shoulders and knees) is expected in all Christian holy sites. Bring a light shawl or scarf — it’s both practical and considerate.
- Photography With Sensitivity: Pictures are allowed in most areas, but avoid flash and remain respectful of worshippers, clergy, and services.
- Understand The Layout: The church is shared by several Christian denominations; a simple floor plan helps you identify key chapels such as the Golgotha, Stone of Anointing, and the Edicule.
- Join A Guided Visit: Exploring with a licensed Israel Tour Guide brings the stories and symbolism to life — from Constantine’s 4th-century basilica to modern-day pilgrimages.
LEARN MORE ABOUT THE HOLY SEPULCHRE
- Custody of the Holy Land
A detailed historical and architectural overview of the Holy Sepulchre Church in Jerusalem. - Jerusalem Patriarchate
Information from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate about worship, history, and visitor guidance. - Custody of the Holy Land
Practical visitor info, including opening hours and ongoing renovations. - Christian Information Center
Broader site offering visitor advice for the Holy Land, including the Holy Sepulchre.
Ready To Walk Through History?
Few places in the world connect faith and time quite like the Holy Sepulchre Church in Jerusalem. Join me, Uncle Ofer, your licensed Israel Tour Guide, for a private, insightful walk through the alleys, chapels, and courtyards where history and belief meet. Click the “Get In Touch” button to plan a personalized visit that reveals the story, spirit, and sacred legacy of this remarkable site.